UK Friends of the Airborne Museum's trip to Arnhem

On the afternoon of Friday 26th June 2009 21 members of the UK's Friend's of the Airborne Museum gathered outside the Schoonoord for the start of the UK member's weekend excursion to Arnhem, which takes place every two years. Although turn-out was slightly down on previous years the group was happy to welcome six members who were new to the event and, speaking as one of those new members, we were made most welcome. As ever the UK's Society Representative, Niall Cherry, was our incredibly knowledgeable and lucid tour leader for the weekend.

The first event of the weekend was a very pleasant Friday afternoon stroll (in blazing sun) in Oosterbeek looking at the role various streets around the Tafelberg had played during the battle. The old Tafelberg hotel was an important field dressing station during the battle and has now been converted into residential flats. While we were gathered outside the building one of our UK Dutch speaking members managed to sweet talk a resident into letting the group into the building's main hall, which has a display of war time photographs of the Tafelberg and some of the original mosaic floor tiles (which still had visible blood staining). While we were looking at the display and imagining the harrowing experience of undergoing surgery on the Tafelburg's snooker table in 1944, the group were surprised to see none other than Kate ter Horst's youngest daughter exit the lift and, although somewhat startled by a large group of unannounced visitors, she was surprisingly warm and welcoming! Wendela ter Horst was six years old during the battle and now lives in the complex.  Our temporary host then invited us to view their private library which had a fine collection of Arnhem battle related books. Much to Niall Cherry's embarrassment a member present found a copy of his definitive history of the 1st Airborne Division's medics at Arnhem 'Red Beret's and Red Crosses', which he somewhat meekly signed and dedicated to the residents. To this writer the generosity of the resident in inviting 21 unknown people into what was part of his home epitomised the amazing generosity the Dutch showed us throughout the weekend. After viewing some more houses nearby, each with extraordinary war time tales to tell, the group was amazed by just how many notable events and mini battles had taken place in only three streets. I suppose beforehand if you'd said that we would walk less than 200 yards and spend 2 hours looking at this area I'd have thought you were mad, but to actually achieve this was testament to the amount of research Niall had put in. The group then moved on to the real treat of the day.

The treat was that our erstwhile leader had persuaded the Museum's Director and a representative from the builders to allow us to enter behind the wire and see the new Museum at close quarters. Upon arrival at the Hartenstein the group entered what can only be described as a building site and, considering the UK's attitude to health and safety, the Museum was very generous in allowing us to enter the concrete encased hole in the ground that will be the new sight and sound experience of the battle of Arnhem. This entailed balancing on a wooden plank and walking down a very Heath Robinson spiral staircase. We were guided around the complex by Dick Schluter, the Museum's Director, who put many mind's at rest about how the new museum would function and what exhibits would be on display from the old collection (uniforms and weapons will still be on display). Although the sight and sound room had very little in it during our visit the outlines of the buildings making up the street scenes were clearly visible. Dick then took us into the Hartenstein main building which had pretty much been "gutted" in order to seek to restore it to part of it to its original condition. Dick was very informative and pleased to answer our questions and we all gave thanks for his time, which must be precious considering that the new museum is due to open on 28 August and barely half the works appear to have been completed!

In the evening Niall had arranged for Gerard Gijsbertsen (a board member and a serving Lt-Col in the Dutch Army) to give a powerpoint presentation on the German Army's invasion of Holland in 1940 and the Allied liberation in 1944 at the Dreyernoord Hotel (White House). A well known Dutch book dealer also set up a stall where many members present ended up spending far more than they could afford. Indeed much of the talk was of the sighting of the very rare 1950's book 'Nine Days' by Ronald Gibson, which quickly disappeared for quite a few Euros!

The evening also included the presentation to the Museum of the medals of L/Sergeant J Lambie who in 1944 was present in Arnhem as a member of the 7th KOSB, this group of medals included the somewhat rare award of the US Bronze Star. Ian and Margaret also donated other items including his beret. The items were accepted on behalf of the Museum by the Friends Chairman Ben Kolster.

The long day then closed with a few more drinks.

On the Saturday the group spent the morning visiting the wide expanses of Ginkel Heath which was the main dropping zone area of the 4th Parachute Brigade on the second lift. We were pleased that Peter Gijbels, author of the book 'Leading the Way to Arnhem', joined the tour and who enlightened us on the actions of the 21st Independent Parachute Company in the vicinity. The day had opened with Niall Cherry regaling us with a superb mock German officer's accent which inferred  that he had actually missed his main calling in life which was surely playing Herr Flick from "Hello Hello".

Photo: lunch at the Leeren Doedel

The group had lunch at a nearby camp site near Wolfheze where Niall had arranged with a local farmer named Paul Hendriks to let us view his extensive collection of Horsa Glider relics largely dug from the surrounding fields. The relics were stored in a large barn which was an absolute treasure trove of Glider parts, either stacked in boxes or on display, such as a fully restored and working cockpit instrument panel. Paul told us he was going to use the thousands of spare parts he had collected over the years to reconstruct a Horsa Glider based around the front section of the fuselage of a Horsa glider which he had purchased in the UK and which was also on display in the barn.

In the afternoon the group proceeded to visit more of the landing zones of the second lift as well as the famous culvert escape route under the railway embankment where a group photograph was taken around the entrance to the culvert (some standing on top of it). The group then continued to the location of General Hackett's HQ; the area where Captain Queripel won his VC and with the help of Peter Gijbels took in some buried slit trenches of 21st Independent Parachute Company. The weather on this day was extremely hot and humid which made the going very tough for many of us. The penultimate stop was the Koepel, a place which although not really a part of the fighting, was mentioned in the orders for the 4th Parachute Brigade's attack on the 19th and a place to which no one had been before. By the time we had reached the final stop of the day, Oosterbeek War Cemetery, the rain had begun to fall, which had been proceeded by some spectacular thunder claps.

On the Sunday morning (our last day) the group partook in what has now become the customary trip around the Arnhem battle area in vintage WWII vehicles. Again our Dutch hosts did us proud giving up their Sunday to chauffer us around in no less than seven WWII vehicles. The group were taken by the long route to Arnhem by first going south across the river and were thrilled to drive over the Arnhem road bridge from south to north. Upon arrival at the north end of the bridge the group stopped and Niall related the attempts to take the south end of the bridge, Lt Grayburn's VC exploits and the actions of the 1st Anti Tank Battery. We were all given a copy of a letter written by Mrs Grayburn in November 1944 to the mother of one of the soldiers of her husbands platoon. This was one of several documents that Niall kindly gave copies out of from his personal collection and certainly added a whole new dimension to the trip.

Photo: the group discussing Urquhart and Lathbury

in western Arnhem on the Alexanderstraat

The group then moved into the area of the town where General Urquhart and Brigadier Lathbury became trapped and separated from their respective HQs and the houses where they took refuge.

We then moved onto the area where the 10th Parachute Battalion attempted to make the last offensive break through to the Arnhem Bridge where we stopped for lunch.

We were then joined by Martin Peters, another Dutch "expert", this time on the 10th Parachute Battalion. Martin took us around the area occupied by the 10th Battalion. At this time the weather clouded over and the heavens opened in a downpour of biblical proportions. Luckily the WW2 vehicles had canvas roof coverings which worked to a fashion. The downpour meant we were not able to visit Hackett's Hollow, as planned, but continued straight on to Westerbouwing for our final stop of the day. Fortuitously by the time we reached Westerbouwing the rain had stopped and the sun had come out again.

For this, our final stop, Niall had arranged what for most of us was the highlight of the weekend. WO1 Geert Jonker had graciously given up his Sunday to talk about his work in charge of the Dutch Army Recovery and Identification Unit. He spoke about the work of the unit and used three case studies to explain the various processes his section use to seek to identify the remains. The group was totally transfixed by his accounts and looked on in admiration at the devotion, dedication and respect he displayed in recovering the bodies of the many war dead that are still being discovered to this day. I think the real bonus of these trips are that time is spent at each location giving the time for questions, comments and discussion as a group about what happened with none of the on the bus off the bus constraints.

The weekend's activities were then brought to a close apart from the evening farewell dinner at the Schoonoord restaurant. Here the group were joined by many of our Dutch "hosts" that had looked after us so well during the weekend and were pleased to welcome the author of "B Company Arrived", David van Buggenum. Towards the end of the evening Niall was deservedly presented with the much sought after Arnhem book, "Poles Apart" from the group as thanks for all his hard work and indomitable spirit.

Although it was my first tour I was made extremely welcome, exceeded my expectations and learnt a lot amongst like minded enthusiasts and have already booked for 2011!

Steve Sowerby

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